2012 10 09 Tuesday

Walney to Whitby Day 1
Walney to Oxenholme

Can you believe our luck. We've had wall to wall sunshine nearly all day. Good weather makes such a difference to these rides. It raises our spirits and simplifies things but above all it massively elevates the view we have of the areas we pass through. Today was no exception and, although the rule was true, being fringe Lake District, the quality of the scenery was out of this world. Well pleased we were!

The day started early, at 04:23 to be precise when mice with clogs on started their ritual dance in the room above. Along with the Hewitts in the room next door I shall never know what was going on but thankfully I went back to sleep until the alarm at 07:00.

Our departure was prompt at 08:00 followed by our first bike trip across the road as it happens to the cafe at Asdas for breakfast. Strange how they say Asdas up here as well as at home!

My usual food disaster that followed was predictable. I was the first in the queue and ordered one of the set cooked breakfasts. Michael and Judith on the other hand ordered what they wanted and, to add insult to injury, paid less for it. Will I ever learn? Later at the hotel I let the consensus decide my choice and it worked great!

By 09:00 we were off down to the west coast of Walney Island where the W2W start point is marked. While we did Jill was averting the traditional disaster of a late start by taking Dave to Halfords to buy a seat clamp and post to replace the one “Janet lost” when the bike was packed in the car in pieces. Ooops. Sorry Janet, the one that Dave should have taken better care of! Jill got a quick result as well. She drove past before we'd cycled the three miles to the Walney start giving us the thumbs up! Nice one Jill. You saved us there from Michael's wrath, a sight not to behold. Amazing how anyone can conceal wrath when you know for sure they're wrathing away under the surface! 

The start was inauspicious. The view over the Irish Sea was beautiful with a plethora of wind farms in view. However, none of the land-based razamatazz that we're used like on the C2C and WotR and TPT with sculptures, signs and landscaping. Just a sticker on a flagpole with no flag. Nevertheless, it gave us the marker for our group photo and, once taken we were on our way. There was a fly past but I don't think that counted as it was only a light plane landing at Barrow airport!

Walney has its own model town development, Vickerstown, but you wouldn't have known on the route we took.  The fight through morning rush-hour traffic in Barrow was no more than a custard fight and we were soon past the huge BAe yard sheds and the edge of the early example of a new town by James Ramsden. We were leaving on the cycle lane on the wide, tree-lined boulevard out of Barrow passing Furness Abbey but it was so boring I missed our turn-out onto country lanes. At least I had the good fortune to pass the Gatehouse to Abbey House which is an Edwyn Lutyens Edwardian creation and, therefore, a national architectural treasure.

Our route soon corrected we arrived at the remains of the Cistertian Furness Abbey, a big un as abbeys go, or should that be went? With a stop for a photo and derobing break Michael went off to find the hotel where he did his first Whitbread relief manager stint. He found it but here we go again, a sign of the times, it was all boarded up. And after all that, we were on our way proper.

Familiar territory. Narrow, hedge-lined lanes weaving around the contours and sometimes up and over them but, almost always the long way round to keep us safe from the main roads. Nevertheless, the occasional vehicles, some courteous, others not. Vans and trucks in a hurry. Tractor-mounted hedge cutters jangling our nerves. Even a monster tractor revving and bearing down on us as if it was ever likely to get past. “B****y tourists, d****d cyclists, old gimmers, who do they think they are getting in our way? We have work to do and it's being hindered!” But the fresh air and freedom, the camaraderie and the countryside, and the views from those climbs make it all worth while. The sun shimmering on the distant sea to the south and the greens and oranges of the bracken, grass and autumnal trees and grey peaks of distant mountains to the north.

But also the history of Britain unfolds as we go. Last night walking to the restaurant we passed some sculpted panels illustrating the industrial past of the Furness area. One of them showed a steel-making blast furnace marking the beginning of Barrow as an industrial city and, in its time the largest steel making town in the world. Today one of the narrow lanes at Newton was closed. We missed the subtle sign change telling us and, it wasn't until we reached the railings totally blocking our path, and I mean totally, that we realised. And the reason? The road had disappeared down a hole, the result of collapsed mine workings. With all the rain recently maybe not surprising. Thank goodness the blockade was so effective. Wouldn't want to end up down a hole immitating a mole! And the mine for? Iron ore apparently, haematite. As we diverted back the way we'd come we passed road works but on closer scrutiny they turned out to be another collapse gobbling up a chunk of the hedgerow. Here you would have no idea of the history but further on at Dalston there were the clear remains of the mines. And, of course, that all ties in with the sculpture of the industrial history which progressed to include ship building.

A cry of eureka did I hear? No, coffee was the answer! No guesses from whom! And so it came to pass, with a long descent into Ulverston, Stan Laurel's home town, and the home to the prominent Hoad Monument which is a replica of the Eddystone Lighthouse on a prominent local hill. Most importantly coffee was a success at Poppies Tea Room Café. Very nice too.

Cobbled streets behind us and more climbs and descents ahead we continued northwards up the Furness peninsula. At Greenodd the terrain changed where we were directed to our very own dedicated bridleway bridge across the Leven estuary and onto the flat, alluvial plain. This lulled us into a false sense of security.

Bigland hill was next! And it was big. It took out nearly everyone with lack of fitness the number one excuse, sorry, reason for walking. Once on top we had a good view of the Lake District mountains and a downhill run to Cartmel with only a docile bull being driven to new "pastures", ahem, a cause for concern!

As we entered the village we passed Cartmel Racecourse. How it has changed. From originally being a field used for the annual races it’s now a very permanent feature on the landscape. Cartmel village on the other hand hasn't changed and gave us more food and tea to fuel us along @CartmelCoffee.

Allithwaite and Grange over Sands came next and went without stopping. Then the caravanners' quiet lane to Mythop leading us beyond to more estuarial plains, those of the river Kent before Levens village and more vertical contouring. This lane gave Brian a connection as we passed Witherslack where a branch of Jill's family hail from. And that's another story.

Further struggles with the terrain up Sizergh Fell Road and resolutions to go to the gym more took us past the entrance to Sizergh Castle and Barn, or more accurately past it as time was pressing. This was Michael's and my connection as we retraced some of our End to End steps to Natland, just outside Kendal. This section was only marred by the motoring madness that is rush hour. And yes, it exists here as it does in urban areas only to a lesser degree.

Our final leg was another killer hill up The Helm but again for views to die for of Kendal and the Lakes mountains. As we cycled along the tops, on a single track lane squeezing past traffic dashing home we unexpectedly came to crossroads with The Station Inn, Oxenholme, our stop for the night on the opposite corner. I say unexpectedly as it's about half a mile from the railway! And there you have it: 50 miles done of which 47 miles W2W and 4700 feet climbed. And it's pretty much to be repeated tomorrow. With some bike maintenance carried out and suitably rested, plus a few painkillers as well maybe, we'll be ready to do it all again! Right, where’s the beer and fish and chips?!